The coronavirus continues to spread throughout the world, leaving deep traces throughout our society. Many people are either infected by the virus or feel mentally bad. All companies in the retail sector are bleeding and companies are now going bankrupt.
Read the Doctor of fashion Philip Warkander’s thoughts on the connection between fashion’s roles in society and how culture influences what we wear and his thoughts on how the coronavirus will affect the fashion industry and fashion trends of today.
What is style for you?
– Style is usually explained in relation to fashion: if fashion is defined by change, style, on the contrary, is what is constant over time. Think of the word “writing” – your way of writing makes your writing style recognizable, it distinguishes you and becomes your signature in a way that fashion does not. Style is therefore consistent in expression over time.
What determines how we dress in Swedish society? Or any other culture in the world?
– We are influenced by the environment we are in. A little like what fish is to water: we are blind to the norms and structures that characterize our culture. Swedish culture is very conscience-oriented and therefore Swedish fashion is relatively equal. It should be portable and practical, often it is simple in color and relatively unisex.
What is the role of fashion in our society?
– Internationally, fashion is an important industry. As part of the larger field of cultural and creative industries, fashion has often been used to market both cities (such as Paris, the “capital of fashion”) and countries (“Made in Italy”). But fashion is also important at the individual level, as a way of communicating who you are or want to be. This is especially noticeable among young people who spend a large part of their disposable income on clothes.
Can fashion be a force for change in society?
– Fashion can be both progressive and conservative, and it is not necessarily positive the change that it contributes to. In addition, it is important to distinguish between the symbolic and material dimensions of fashion: the message of the jersey print may be feminist, but what are the working conditions for the factory workers and the cotton farmers?
How would you describe your own style and personal brand?
– That is a difficult question. Since I work with and have to think about fashion in general, I have a rather weak personal fashion interest. I simply do not care that much about what I wear. The thing is that I often travel a lot – it is not uncommon for me to spend a total of about 24 hours a week aboard the train – and it is, therefore, key that everything I wear is comfortable. I can not dress up as I would like to sometimes. Due to the traveling situation, the practical aspect is more important than the aesthetic approach.
What do you want to express through your style?
– I really only have one basic rule: I dress as rarely as I can in black clothes. As I work in the cultural sector, I see how common it is that people who want to appear as intellectuals dress in black. It’s a simple trick to make to appear smart, but I think it really testifies to laziness and that it reinforces clichés about how a cultural worker dresses, for example (architect, designer, art historian etc. Therefore, it is more fun and more innovative to challenge ingrained attitude and instead dress in color.
What is the biggest misconception about you?
– That I’m interested in fashion. You have to distinguish between work and leisure. In my professional role, I am absolutely knowledgeable about fashion, but in my free time, I would rather be in my greenhouse and take care of my plants or take a walk in the forest with the dog.
What advice do you have for leaders to express themselves in today’s society?
– Make sure your style is in line with the values you represent.
As a Doctor of Fashion Science – what do you think will happen with the entire fashion industry now?
– We can already see that the companies that have been on the border have applied for reconstruction or have gone bankrupt. In this way, the corona situation has reinforced trends that already existed. But, there is also a more philosophical aspect: the crisis has shown that we do not have to buy as much clothing as we have done so far. Now is the question – will there be another type of clothing consumption?
Do you think today’s leaders need to start building their sustainable wardrobe?
– I definitely think they should, but I think it is doubtful that they will. There is still a tendency of discussing the environmental impacts of fashion, not least in relation to consumer culture, in the same way, that there is a resistance to wanting to see the consequences of climate change, their (meat) eating or (air travel) tendencies. If we are to start to seriously discuss today’s leaders’ clothing from an environmental perspective, I would probably have been annoyed when it had meant that they should also ask critical questions about how their clothes were manufactured and what quantities are reasonable to buy in a year. And that’s what few people are ready to do.
In your new book you write about the desire to embrace change – Can Coronavirus lead to an awakening for sustainability in fashion?
– I think the corona situation can reinforce the sustainability discourse that was already under development. But, these discussions are still very focused on the superficial- it’s still paying lip service more than anything else – and we have to make sure that words are also linked to actions. There it is still far to go.
What do you think are the new trends in the fashion world now and with the Coronavirus?
– I think this will lead to an increase in online commerce at the same time as fashion communication is becoming increasingly digital. When fashion weeks are canceled and the news is instead communicated online, more and more people will understand that it is unnecessarily expensive to give artificial breathing to old-fashioned formats such as fashion shows. More and more it’s going digital. Aesthetically, however, probably not much happens in relation to corona, as soon as the current trend has run its course, it is most likely and probably business as usual with streetwear influences and large logotypes on clothes.
Philip Warkander is an associate professor of fashion science at Lund University in Sweden. He is also columnist at Bon magazine.
The image of Philip is taken by the photographer Tomas Falmer.
